” … a curious food man … With a chef’s hat full of wit, a sparkling eye, a light hand to lift his glass, he is a swashbuckler of the drip pans, a juggler of pots, and a poet of stews … He is a host of eternity, a kind of Medici of food. He pushes a button, and presto … “

Robert Courtine, Feasts of a Militant Gastronome, Morrow, 1974.