We accept the lie that there is a perfect way of eating that will save your soul and send you careering blithely through your 80s, into your 90s and beyond. Do what you want, we’re told – but you’ll die if you get it wrong.

I don’t want you to feel this way. Food shouldn’t be a bad boyfriend, dragging you down or holding you to ransom. It should nourish your body as much as it fuels your mind; it should pump life through your veins; it should waltz in sync with your mood and your appetite, sometimes blissful, often mundane, always a part of you.”

Ruby Tandoh, Eat Up! Food, Appetite and Eating What You Want, Serpent’s Tail, 2018.